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We don't support aluminium. Our alloys are tin and bismuth. Our solder pot goes high enough to use those metals, NOT aluminium.

It varies depending on the complexity of the master figure and what metal you are pouring in. You will get dozens perhaps. The rubber is more delicate than our standard rubber. Normally make the metal master and then convert it to a full black rubber mould by sending it to us. A direct press for a strong black rubber mould is a service we can provide.

black rubber similar to car retreading rubber.

@@princeaugustcasting I assume it cannot be obtained in a hobby shop?

@@osmanpasha_diy Do you mean the moulds or the raw rubber? Some hobby shops may stock our products depending on where you are. We have distributors in some countries that have their own list of retailers. You cannot but the rubber itself from a hobby shop.

@@princeaugustcasting No, I meant the rubber itself.

@@osmanpasha_diy No. You cannot buy it from any hobby shop. It is impossible for you to make a mould without a press. You can look into retreading rubber manufacturers for the raw rubber. Not sure what good that will do in terms of use however.

We use a huge press and cut the rubber into rectangles via a smaller press with a sharp template. We place one layer of rubber into a special tray, then place the master figure with ingates on top, spray it to prevent the rubber from blending together and then place the top layer of rubber on top. The large press heats up the rubber and puts 2 tonnes of pressure on it to force it around the figure. When finished we remove the rubber and the master figures and ingates and clean up the rubber from any bleeding rubber (a thin leakage) and it is ready to use. There is a bit more to it but that is the basic guide.

Vulcanised Black Rubber similar to car tire retreading rubber. It is flexible but sturdy.

Tin, Lead and Bismuth.

You must use primer before painting them. Aerosols or primer from pots, that is your choice.

The 25mm Napoleonic range has other countries but not every country. We have a russian unit here. shop.princeaugust.ie/pa551-25mm-russian-officer-infantry-advancing-firing-moulds/

I had posted it as a short but for some reason, there was a fraction of a second more than 60 seconds that made this not a short. I edited it to try to correct this.

I am not sure what you mean exactly in regard to iron but our metal in a humid environment can tarnish (a darker coating) and you remove that tarnish by using our brass brush to gently scrub away the offending layer.

@@princeaugustcasting Appreciated thank you . I had metal old paint pots stored with lead miniatures and different metals reacted . I've just being using soapy water and a nail brush. Thanks for the Ur time and I really enjoy even watching the process. Please keep up de uploads . Cheers .

@@anything6398 You are welcome.

Are you referring to the Custom Starter kit. shop.princeaugust.ie/pk-80-kit-custom-casting-starter-kit/ Then just buy other moulds or items that we can include in the kit beyond what is stated in the contents (within reason to fit in the kit.)

@@princeaugustcasting when I added the seven years war hagers but still charged me the 26 dollars

Are you saying you are not being charged for extra moulds? Just the base price of the starter kit? That is impossible. You are charged for the extra items you are including in your cart. The starter kit only has the items listed in the contents. Please email me a screen shot of the issue as I don't understand what the problem is. info@princeaugust.ie@@thatwargaming5459

@@princeaugustcasting oh thanks

@@princeaugustcasting hey your astrain molds and Prussian ones are basically the same can I use the Prussian muskerters grenders and fuslers for the Austrians to?

Thanks for informing us about Teknikland. Have you any photos to share of their display of our figures? If so can you email them to us via info email address. Or share a video of them. If your casting are coming out incomplete, please check the temperature of the metal you are using and also check that the release powder is not compacting in sensitive spots between castings and is bone dry. Damp powder will clump. Other than that you can vent an area but normally that is a last resort. We have a video on venting.

It depends on the figures and the metal temperature used. Normally you should be able to use the mould hundreds of times without issue. The hotter the metal, the more wear that occurs. The more care you give to the mould, the longer it lasts. Be careful removing figures and follow our advice on casting and the mould can last years. We have had customers get moulds from their parents and still use them fine after literally decades of storage.

Yes. Our 5 STar Metal is pewter so the moulds can cope with pewter.

@@princeaugustcasting Thank you, I'll order one from your website...

Thanks for the comment. There are problems with casting a lot of small details with moulds. Generally the smaller the figure the less details that are going to be added. It depends on the details of course but there is a huge difference between casting figures ourselves and expecting customers to cast them at home with gravity casts and a varied metal alloy choice. While scaling the range to 28mm would be possible on the design side, the casting element is trickier to work with. We have done 28mm and 25mm but they have to have larger and larger ingates to get them to fill. The more details added the more risk of failure when casting them.

@@princeaugustcasting thanks for the reply, i think if you are making 28mm mould that should help a bit with detail issues but i do understand, Centrifugal Rubber Mould Casting is a little expensive😅

Vallejo Acrylic Paint. We use a selection of different brushes, that come from a german manufacturer in Nuremburg. Their name translates to Associated Brush Manufacturer. I cannot pronounce or spell their german name without having to source the invoice.

Great Paint choice

As long as its for metal surfaces it should work. Naturally you need to be careful that its not too thick or it will obscure the model's details. An aerosol primer is a good option for fine coverage.

We mentioned the metal in the description. It was Model Metal, which is an alloy of lead, tin and bismuth. It is the easiest to cast with.

Pure lead takes a lot of heat to get it to flow successfully. Most cookers cannot achieve that temperature. You could add Tin to the mix (50/50) to improve the result, plus make it safer to handle. I advise getting a solder pot to get the temperature up to about 390 to 400 C . If you are still struggling then you need to vent the mould (cut a hairline channel from the end of the difficult spot upwards towards the outside of the mould. We have a video on this procedure on this channel.

@@princeaugustcasting thank you 🔥☺️

Its a release agent made of talcum powder (unscented).

@@princeaugustcasting I bought these molds. good to know that. thank you master

@ Thank you for your support.

I am not in a position to inform you of that.

@@princeaugustcasting MaybI ask you who is in position to inform? Kind regards

@@remisjuknevicius5796 you can reach out to us by email and I can ask my director if he is willing to share that info.

Thanks so much. We actually have a special sale on today on Mithril due to it being Tolkien's 131st birthday. Happy New Year.

@@princeaugustcasting Thats great, thank you for telling me..

We are temporarily sold out. We will be getting more silicone next year. Try back then.

@@princeaugustcasting Gotcha, thanks for the reply and Happy New Year!

We are currently out of stock of the silicone. Once in stock again, we will have all the information on the product page itself. I am afraid that the translation program has not translated your meaning well enough to know how to answer your question. Our silicone rubber is designed to not need a vacuum chamber to work properly. But if you have such a chamber to remove air bubbles, it is always better.

If you find that works for you, fine but our powder is a bit cleaner than graphite.

There are lots of possible reasons. 1. Warm the moulds before casting to remove any dampness (especially at this time of year). 2. Make sure you have clamped the moulds carefully to avoid the spot that is giving you a problem. Even with support boards, a clamp directly on a sensitive spot is not helpful. 3. The most likely is metal temperature being too low. 4. Tap the mould while pouring or immediately afterwards to help settle the metal. 5. If all else fails, vent the mould around the area that is apparently not filling. A hair line cut with a scalpel on one side will let air pockets escape. You need to send me photos of the casting if you want me to give you better advice.

450 C will significantly damage the moulds. We recommend staying under 400 which works for any of our metals, including printers metal.

Thank you

Well Model Metal gets great detail because it has a lower casting temp but you can simply use a solder pot to get great results from any of our metals really. Tapping the mould while casting really helps too. A warm mould, a fine layer of release agent everywhere and proper understanding of clamping and it all adds up.

Thank you.

Quite a lot different. Model Metal is an alloy of lead, tin and bismuth. 5-Star is an alloy of tin with a little zinc and antimony. 5-Star needs at least 60 Celsius more to get it ready to pour (380 C vs 320C). 5 Star is lighter (85 vs 125 g per ingot). 5 Star is harder than MM due to the amount of Tin in it. Model Metal is softer due to the lead.

The casting point is what matters. The melting point is just turning the solid metal into some form of liquid. The casting point is where you added enough energy (heat) to keep it liquid as it travels from the ladle into the mould and fills it, THEN cools enough to transition back into a solid. If its too close to the melting point you just get a lump in the mould as its too busy transitioning to a solid to flow into the details of the mould.

Yes any metals used are used for a reason. Bismuth is viewed as a replacement for lead, due to the concerns around that metal. It is close to the same weight and has many other desireable properties including melting times and cost (at least before markets changed this year.) However I personally am not a metalurgist so if there is a specific question I would have to consult with Lars to see if I can get clarification. I do know that a lot of experimentation went into the metal alloys before we released them.

Not at this time. We are currently (2022) working on another Seven Years War release this year.

oh cool! Well hey I’ll still be a customer, I love your guys moulds.

Not sure what you mean by a 'positive being'? We do show the casting in many of our videos if you mean the final cast being shown not just the pouring of the metal into the mould.

@@princeaugustcasting Hi, thanks for replying.I understand that in casting,the 'positive' is the technical term for the original object that's cast ; the mold - the 'negative' is made from an impression of the 'positive'. Are there any videos of one of these 'positives' being sculpted before hand?

@@cymro6537 No. All our sculpts are done by Chris Tubb, and he lives in the UK so I cannot film him doing it and he prefers his privacy. Currently we use zbrush to design digitally our figures.

@@princeaugustcasting Go raibh maith agat👍

Flux deoxides the metal, reclaiming it from the dross. It can only be really used properly with temps above 300 celsius. Some small amount of ash remains after use so no not 100%. Dross are just impurities in the original metal, or powder from previous castings rising to the surface. These get encrusted in metal so the flux reduces or cleans off the metal from the dust. You then remove the dust rather than slag (dust with metal) before casting.

​@@princeaugustcasting That's very clear and helpful thank you PA (I've just received my first melting pot from you via Amazon btw). I don't know whether you know about such things but as you mentioned _deoxides,_ would the flux be of any use clearing the grey streaks of oxidation out of molten gallium metal? Been quite nuisance to me for a long time.

@@beingsshepherd I am sorry I do not know how that would apply to gallium. Gallium has an insanely low melting point, so I am not sure what interaction would occur with flux.

@@princeaugustcasting Ah, thanks anyway🙂

Being inexperienced with hobby casting is not being stupid. Warning people to be careful is also not stupid. Posting a snarky comment however...